In Conversation with Rachel Hall Danes

Tell us about your background: 

At 19, I moved to New York to get into the fashion industry. My first apartment was actually an SRO known as the Sloane House YMCA on 34th and 9th. My mother dropped me off and drove immediately back to my preppy hometown of Annapolis, Maryland. I went to FIT at night and worked fashion industry jobs by day. After the first semester, I moved to the East Village with friends and for some years I did restaurant work to pay my rent. I spent too much time at bars, Danceteria, The World, and Save the Robots; but the freedom and rebellious creativity of the club kids, artists, and skaters I knew have always inspired me. At the American High shop in Soho, I was tied up by a thief upon opening one morning, until the police arrived. I worked at Barneys 17th Street where I learned about fitting women and the luxury industry, as well as at a European showroom where I learned about sales, financing, production, and delivery problems. I worked under Elizabeth Stewart as a stylist, at an industry print magazine group, when my boyfriend asked me to partner on a new women's wear collection. He had been cutting and sewing menswear by himself for a few years and garnered good media attention, but no business.

We worked in a basement on Henry Street in Chinatown, with rats under the floorboards. I would arrive after night classes about 9:45pm and we would work until 12 or 1, often stopping for bialys at Kossar's on Grand. Once we actually had garment samples, I took them in trunks on the subway to Bendel's open see days, and Barneys. Two and a half years later after two runway shows and strong editorial coverage we sold to Barney's, Bergdorfs, Marissa, Linda Dresner and other boutiques. As the "marketer" I made the portfolio for Robert's CFDA application and he was accepted right away, in 1993. Eventually, we sold to every major department store in the US, as well as the top luxury boutiques and some abroad.

What we created in the spring of 1997 that forms the backbone of the business, are unique patterns, bias pattern slopers without side seams that do not have the typical fit problems of bias cuts. And a few years later, we started building comfortable corsets inside the gowns, expanding the shape and fit possibilities of soft textiles like French silk chiffon.

I learned Quickbooks, Excel, and cash flow management via trial and error, as well as systems for quality control and maximizing sell-through and inventory.

I’m thrilled to see so many positive changes happening in our industry despite all of the challenges ahead. I've always believed in fewer better high-quality items that last and prioritizing our people and our planet for better profitability in the long run.

What do you wish you’d known when you started out?

To trust my own instincts. Which are hard to hear if you are over-caffeinated and then drink alcohol to relax.

Best career advice you've ever received?

It took me several years to learn to approach problems with a Win-Win philosophy. I had very focused brand, financial, and customer goals for the first decade, but when a larger competitive colleague suggested "there is enough for everyone" I realized the strength and power of community relationships in business.

What leadership qualities are important to you?

Trust, integrity, confidence, respect, delegation, emotional intelligence

What has been the biggest challenge in your career so far? 

My biggest challenge so far was parting ways with my brand and partner for decisions and responsibilities. And yet simultaneously, this was the best thing for me.

And for fun, what is your favorite wardrobe staple?

Shoes I can run in, and racer neck guipure tops.

LinkedIn URL: www.linkedin.com/in/rachelhalldanes

Website: www.thedanes.us

Instagram: @rachelhalldanes and @rachelhalldanesanddaughters